In the middle of nowhere among gnarled apple trees lies Friden. Here, a woman from Hälsingland and a man from Stockholm have created an unusual restaurant that bakes perhaps the best pizzas in Österlen.
Text: Milena Bergquist Photo: Mr Peter Carlsson
Just when you think you've probably driven the wrong way and the road ends, there's a small three-storey farmhouse from the 19th century. We have found Friden gårdskrog, just outside Mellby, a few kilometres from Kivik and there is smoke from the chimney in the old stable.
- "It's usually very quiet at this time of year," sighs Barbro Runwall Olsson, who together with her husband Peter owns and runs Friden gårdskrog, a few kilometres from Kivik. But even though it's only just after 12 noon, the place is already full of people. The glow is perfect in the oven where the first pizzas of the day are baked, a Hultgren and an Endre. Friden's pizzas are named after regulars who in one way or another have earned this.
- The first pizzas are like the first pancakes, difficult to get really good. The edges don't want to be dark enough," says Peter as he uses his strong hands to bake dough on dough. In the next minute, he decorates the baked bases with hand-peeled prawns, fresh coriander, freshly caught mussels, aubergine, pesto, tomatoes, mushrooms, wild duck meat and more. As much as possible organic and locally produced.
Barbro takes orders and serves homemade apple juice from large bottles. Tony Bennett sings a duet with Frank Sinatra from the loudspeakers and everything goes on as in a kind of loving and accustomed dance in this odd place full of details to rest your eyes on. The stained-glass windows in the annex are reminiscent of a church. Friden is Barbro and Peter's unique creation where everything is on their terms. Guests can take it as it is.
So why is it that a marketing woman from Hälsingland and a genuine Söderkis from Stockholm are cooking pizzas in Österlen?
- "Oh, I've told this story many times," says Barbro, laughing, but after a little persuasion, the story of life's sometimes wondrous and intricate paths is told. What was supposed to be a report about the art of pizza baking, instead becomes about love.
Barbro and Peter first met when they were 18 and both working at Långbro mental hospital. They hit it off, Peter made Barbro laugh, but they didn't become a couple because both were already busy.
- A few years later, I was working as a pizza chef in a southern suburb and I'll never forget that winter day when the door suddenly blew open and a woman in a fur coat walked in. After a few seconds, I realised that the woman was Barbro," says Peter as he places trout roe on dollops of avocado cream.
They fell in love, but it was as if the time was not yet right and for various reasons they parted again. Barbro moved to Gothenburg, then ended up in Österlen where she started working in marketing at the wine and must manufacturer Åkesson.
- After many years, I got tired, felt burnt out and started longing to do something completely different. I dreamed of buying an old apple farm that still had the old apple varieties," says Barbro, cursing the years when apple growers received EU subsidies to pull up all the old varieties and replace them with new, much less flavoursome varieties.
Barbro told her thoughts to an acquaintance who immediately pointed out the old farm at the end of the road. They went there, but turned round at the farmyard. Everything was so dilapidated and overgrown that you could barely see the houses.
But houses that want to be bought don't let go and when the farm reappeared with an estate agent, Barbro couldn't resist going there again. In 1999, the farm became hers. After endless renovation work, she started making her own apple brandy, a kind of "pommeau".
It was when Barbro was travelling home from Hälsingland that she unexpectedly started thinking about Peter, wondering how he was doing, what had happened in his life. It had been 13 years since they last saw each other. When she passed through Stockholm, she made a detour to Fruängen and judge by her surprise when she suddenly saw Peter standing there at a bus stop.
- I couldn't believe my eyes, parked the car, walked up and said: "Hi, it's me, Barbro, do you recognise me?
He did, but after a short conversation the bus arrived and he jumped on, which he deeply regretted after only a few metres. Luckily, Barbro had managed to work out that she lived in Kivik and was still called Olsson. But it was still she who called first. 'It would be nice to see you,' she said when they had been talking for over two hours. 'I have some holiday to take and can come down next week,' he replied.
He went down and stayed. It's now 15 years ago and 12 years since they opened Friden, named after the peace Peter found on the old farm. On that path it is. A journey full of joy, great reviews in the White Guide and magazines, but also a never-ending stream of work. In the summer, they work almost around the clock, even though they have several employees. Many times they have been on the verge of giving up when the darkness of the Skåne brook settles around the apple groves in winter.
- I am so proud that we are still holding on. It's fantastic to get to know all these people, our regulars. Those who were children when we opened now come with their own toddlers," says Barbro and sets out two large vegetarian dishes. One Eriksson and one Forslöf.
After one bite, you realise that it's not just the cosy garden where everyone sits outside and eats in the summer, the tokkitschy style, the chickens, the geese and the dream of life in the countryside that attracts you. The edges of the pizzas are crisp, perfectly seared, the crust thin and just as crisp. The flavours of grilled aubergine, whole tomatoes, pesto and the chewy, melting mozzarella are seductive. Peter knows his trade and found his love for pizza when he was a child on holiday with his grandparents in Riva del Sole, Italy.
- It is important to have good raw materials. I bake with sourdough and only with organic wheat from Saltå kvarn and dinkel from Skåne Tranås. And no cheating like sugar in the dough to get the right colour. Then you need a good tomato sauce and a really good mozzarella," says Peter.
For dessert, we offer saffron pears with whipped cream. And chocolate mousse cake with walnuts. Strong coffee and maybe a glass of Barbro's pommeau for those who don't drive.
It is said that children thrive where there is love. The same goes for pub-goers. The love between Barbro and Peter, even though they say they are very different and sometimes fight like hell, is clearly visible in the small pub off the beaten track. It's in the walls and well embedded in the pizzas.
About Barbro Runwall-Olsson at Friden:
Age: 55 years.
Family: Husband Peter 56 years, daughter Petronella, 15 years. Chickens, geese, dog and cat.
Does: Runs Friden gårdskrog together with her husband Peter.
Lives: Just outside Mellby in Österlen.
Click here for the Peace website with opening hours and more information.
4 persons
In winter there are no good fresh tomatoes so take a jar of good quality whole or ripened tomatoes. These tomatoes have been picked when ripe and have a more concentrated flavour.
Remove and spread on the fennel cream and decorate with a few sprigs of rosemary.
Good luck to you!
